Traditional methods of making gnocchi are some of the oldest ways to prepare food – the first noted recipe dates back to the 13th century. The original gnocchi were made with flour and water and had more of a consistency to pasta. It is possible that gnocchi actually pre-date pasta. These days, any “gnocchi” made with flour and water are called pasta, while gnocchi will be a dumpling made with anything else. The most well-known and traditional ingredient is the potato. Have you ever wondered why some people specify their gnocchi as “potato gnocchi“? Well, that’s the reason. Gnocchi does not exclusively mean using potato. Also, the shape of gnocchi also changes in Italy from region to region. Which brings me to my dish – Roman Gnocchi. The Romans put their own spin on gnocchi by using semolina in lieu of potato, by cutting them into larger ‘discs’ and baking the dish. Originally this type of gnocchi was made using crustless bread. Those delicious Romans also add plenty of eggs, cheese and butter to the dish to make it seem like it would taste pretty heavy but, believe me, it tastes weirdly light at the same time. Ok, ok, so traditionally there should be about a half of pound of butter and cheese as the topping. Seriously, guys, it tastes weirdly light! Much lighter than a bowl of traditional potato gnocchi.

Give this easy and different type of gnocchi a try. I’m sure it would be a conversation starter if you made it for friends. You could make different toppings (pesto, meat sauce, etc.) and pair it with roasted vegetables or an arugula salad to make it more of a balanced meal. Whatever you do, give it a try – but maybe wait till the summer is over in order to blast up that oven.

GNOCCHI ALLA ROMANA (ROMAN GNOCCHI)

Ingredients (**Note: We used less butter and cream in our dish because we were feeling like fat asses – it still turned out delicious. If you’re feeling thin, adding the extra butter and cream to the topping will create a delicious and fattening sauce.)

• 4 cups of milk
• 1 cup semolina
• 1/4 cup melted unsalted butter
• 1 egg plus 2 yolks
• 1/3 cup of parmigiano reggiano, grated
• pinch of salt
• pinch of ground nutmeg

For topping:

• 2 tablespoons melted butter
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 1/3 cup grated parmigiano

Recipe:

1. Rub butter in a baking tin to grease.
2. Beat together butter, parmigiano and egg/egg yolks and season with nutmeg and salt and set aside.
3. Heat milk in a large saucepan. When milk is boiling, turn heat down and pour in semolina while stirring. Make sure you pour in a slow and steady stream.
4. Increase heat again to medium. Cook until milk has been absorbed and mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan in one mass (about 6 to 10 minutes).
5. Remove semolina from heat and beat in the butter/parmigiano/egg mixture. When smooth, spoon mixture into baking tin – spread evenly in the pan. Use a knife or a spatula if necessary. The semolina should be about 2 inches thick. Set aside to cool for 1/2 hour.
6. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease another baking dish. Remove cooled semolina from other dish (it should slip out if properly greased) and place on counter/board. Using a cookie cutter or 3 inch-diameter juice glass (or whatever else that is about 3 inches wide and circular) cut semolina slices.
7. Arrange these slices slightly overlapping in your newly greased baking pan.
8. Make the topping by blending the butter and cream and pour over the unbaked gnocchi. Sprinkle parmigiano on top.
9. Bake in oven for 25-30 minutes or until golden. Feel free to put under the broiler for 3 minutes to make top extra-crispy.

Check out some other Roman-cuisine themed posts you might enjoy:

• Cacio e Pepe (recipe)
• Perciatelli (Bucatini) al Amatriciana
• Cacio e Pepe, NYC (restaurant review)
• Remembering Italy with Thin-Crust Pizza

I think the title of this post says it all about my feelings (and others) about the famous Romans dish of pasta, traditionally spaghetti, with pecorino cheese and a good amount of freshly ground pepper.  The name says is all – cacio, meaning cheese, and pepe meaning pepper.  We’re not breaking any new ground here because I’m sure there’s about 50 other food blogs that have made this dish.  I’m just here hoping that if anyone does make it, they try to make it the freshest and best way they can. 

I’m going to get my food snob on here – please do not make this dish soley with parmigiano reggiano and that crappy, old shaker filled with pepper that you may only bust out when laying out your fine china on one or two holidays a year.  The pepper most likely has zero flavor anymore – if you do, please name the dish whatever you want.  I personally think “Pasta with Parmigiano Reggiano and Crappy Old, Non-Spicy Pepper from the Depths of My Cupboard” works great!  If you go to the store and spend $4 you can get some black peppercorns.  Just put them into a pepper grinder or, if you don’t have one, throw the peppercorns in a plastic baggie and grab a meat mallet or a hammer and get out your aggressions.  Keep hammering until you’ve produced some nice, ground pepper.  Make a lot if you’d prefer to not have to go through this exercise again and freeze the extras to prevent the pepper from going bad (ie: flavorless).

The reason I’m so passionate about this is because you can not recreate the amazing flavor of this old, traditional dish if you do not have good pepper.  When freshly ground, pepper is very spicy and full of flavor.  It is not supposed to just produce a nice contrast of color to a boring meal – although the beauty of it is it does that too!  Research taught me that in ancient Rome pepper was extremely popular and was used for medicinal reasons by the ancient Greeks.  It was revered as a very valuable spice.  As for the cheese, I’ll go a bit easier on you if you don’t use the Pecorino cheese, but I’ll give you a light tap on the bum so you’ll remember to try it with that cheese next time.  Pecorino would only be used in this dish in Rome because, well, that’s the regional cheese in that area.  If you look close at the label, it’s really called Pecorino Romano, right?  Parmigiano and pecorino are two very different tasting cheeses.  In fact, there are many varieties of pecorino in Italy ranging from soft to hard versions of the cheese.  For this discussion, we are generally talking solely about Pecorino Romano – the hard cheese that is able to be grated. If you do a comparison, I’d imagine you’d notice that pecorino is much sharper in taste where parmigiano is more nutty and mellow in flavor.  Both are pretty nice and salty, which is why you should not have to salt this dish.  Some people feel very strongly about choosing one of these cheeses over the other.  Because of this, we have chosen to use a mixture of the cheeses for this version of cacio e pepe.  This way you get a blend of the cheese.  But in Rome, you will most likely find the dish made only with pecorino. 

When made correctly, you will not believe how unbelievably creamy and spicy this dish is.  I felt like we were back in Rome (of course only if I closed my eyes VERY hard and did not open them to reveal a very closet-like, dirty Brooklyn apartment).  This dish is so quick and easy, I’m sure Rachel Ray couldn’t even make it because she’d only fill 1/8 of a show.  Give it a try – you won’t be disappointed.

Also, months ago we wrote a post on a great NYC restaurant with the same name as this dish.  If you’re ever in New York, I’d advise you to give this awesome restaurant a try… and order their signature dish made in a hollowed out wheel of pecorino!

I’ve just died and gone to heaven. I just cooked with guanciale (cured pigs jowels/cheeks). I just ate guanciale while sitting back on my couch in my crowded, rent-is-just-too-damn-high apartment watching TV. If only every night could be like this.

If you read our blog (or know us personally) you will know how important Italy is in our lives. We were engaged in Rome and married in Tuscany. Because of our wedding, we ended up spending a total of almost 6 weeks all over Italy starting with our engagement in May, 2006 until our wedding in June, 2007. It has a very big place in our hearts and our stomachs! I think we each gained nine or ten pounds during our three week wedding/honeymoon this past summer. And I do not care that I probably still have not lost all of it. We ate two large meals a day and always had wine with our lunch, there ain’t any amount of walking that’s gonna melt those calories away.

One of our favorite places to eat while in Rome is right across the river from our favorite Roman neighborhood to stay in, Trastevere. We take the short walk across the Tiber to the Jewish Ghetto and up the building stairs to Al Pompiere. Al Pompiere is frequented by locals as well as smart tourists (you should not see any sneakers, oversized t-shirts or fanny/bum bag-wearing toolbags). Their food is very tradional Jewish-Roman cuisine. They have excellent Fried Artichokes and we’ve tasted about 6 of their pastas – all excellent. But, this is where we first tried Bucatini Al’amatriciana – a classic pasta dish from Lazio. It is named after a small town called Amatrice. Supposedly there are different ways to prepare this dish. In Amatrice they do not use onions, but in other areas you will taste them in the dish. Purists do not add garlic and purists would also only use guanciale. I love garlic and guanciale is often difficult to find in the States, so you can choose to be a purist or not. I’ve read others make this dish here in America with pancetta (next best thing to guanciale) or bacon (I guess it’s the second best thing to guanciale). Personally, after eating this dish in Italy many times and now creating it myself with guanciale, I can not imagine substituting it with anything else. I think I’m officially an Al’amatriciana snob, but maybe that’s because the last 4 times I’ve eaten this dish has been with guanciale.

After our honeymoon, I decided to (sneakily) smuggle a 3/4 pound slab of guanciale in my suitcase back to the US. At the airport, we had on our best “no, we don’t have any meat products in our possession” faces while we got through customs. But that was 6 months ago. The beautiful pig cheek slab has sat in our freezer in shrinkwrapped plastic waiting until the day was right to bring smiles to our faces and our guts. We couldn’t resist any longer – we finally ripped it open and created a pretty bang-on variation of the dish we ate many times in Italy. I know hands – down it was the guanciale. GOD BLESS PIGS JOWLS!

But, readers, PLEASE don’t think this dish wouldn’t be absolutely delicious without guanciale and with pancetta. It just may not have that specific rich, porky flavor that the pig cheeks have. We have about 1/2 of our slab left, so after one more meal 1/2 it will sadly be gone forever. Until my local butcher starts selling it, I will too be making this with pancetta.

PERCIATELLI (OR SPAGHETTI/BUCATINI) AL’AMATRICIANA

Ingredients

• 1/2 pound cured pigs cheeks (guanciale) or pancetta, thinly sliced
• 2 onions very thinly sliced (use a mandolin if available)
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup Pecorino Romano cheese
• 2 1/2 cups Amy’s Tomato Sauce (see below)
• 1 pound perciatelli, bucatini or spaghetti

What to do:

1. Reheat your Tomato Sauce, keep warmed on low.
2. Take your sliced guanciale or pancetta and cook on both sides on medium to medium-low. You want to just render some of the fat, not completely crisp up. After a few minutes, take the strips out and let drain on a paper towel. DO NOT THROW OUT ALL THE RENDERED FAT! Put most in separate bowl, keeping about 1-2 tablespoons in the pan.
3. On medium-low heat, throw in your thinly sliced onions and slow cook these in the rendered guanciale/pancetta fat. This process could take up to 25-30minutes to sweat them down, but it’s WORTH it. The sweetness of the onions when cooked this way can not be duplicated without slow cooking them. You want to make sure you keep stirring them every once in awhile. Add more rendered pork fat if the onions look like they need it.
4. Boil water for your pasta. Add your pasta to cook.
5. Meanwhile, when guanciale/pancetta is cool enough to handle, cut into chunks about 1 inch long by 1/2 inch wide pieces.
6. Add the garlic to the pan and then the guanciale/pancetta pieces. Allow to cook along with the onions for 3 minutes. Continue to stir.
7. Add 1 1/2 cup of pasta sauce to the pan. Stir the sauce.
8. Drain pasta, reserving a few tablespoons of the pasta water. Add the pasta to the pan along with the pasta water. Toss with the sauce. Add more tomato sauce if necessary — remember never to oversauce your pasta!
9. Allow to cook in the pan on low for a minute and then add pecorino. Toss and serve! Sprinkle some parsley on top for some green.

AMY’S TOMATO SAUCE (makes 3 1/2 cups):

• 1 28-oz. can of crushed tomatoes (san marzano preferred)
• 1 onion, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced and 2 cloves garlic, smashed w/ back of a knife
• olive oil
• salt
• 4-5 basil leaves, torn
• peperoncino (optional)

What to do:

1. Saute your onions in olive oil until slightly soft (4 minutes).
2. Add your minced garlic and saute for another minute or so.
3. Add the can of crushed tomatoes and stir. Add one teaspoon of olive oil, a pinch of salt and the crushed garlic allow to simmer for 30-40 minutes. The flavors will reduce together. Add peperoncino if you want a spicier sauce. Finish sauce with a little bit of olive oil and stir in torn basil leaves.

I remembered a place I had saved to ‘My Menu Pages’ a few months ago (NOTE: Menupages is like the locals NYC directory of restaurant menu’s and reviews) called Cacio e Pepe.  The name of the restaurant struck me because it is one of our favorite Roman dishes – simple and tasty.  Cacio e Pepe, the dish, is simply pasta (traditionally it’s with spaghetti), still piping hot, mixed with a bit of the pasta water, a good heaping of freshly grated Pecorino Romano (this is key – Romans would rarely ever use Parmigiana Reggiano since Romano is, well, Roman), a LARGE helping of freshly ground black peppercorns and there ya have it.  When made correctly, it is delectable.  After reading a bit more about the restaurant, I discovered that not only was Cacio e Pepe their signature dish, but the presentation was supposedly very creative. They mixed the piping hot pasta in a whole carved out wheel of Pecorino.  Nice!  I decided that I want to try the restaurant, so we let our friends know to meet us across the street at Bar Veloce, a small, mellow, not-too-pretentious wine bar across the street (HIGHLY recommended!).

We arrived to Cacio e Pepe to a full house, busteling with people laughing, chatting, eating and drinking merrily away.  It was a scene reminiscent of most restaurants in Italy. It just had that same feeling, smell and atmosphere. Then I heard the staff all speaking Italian to each other.  They warmly greeted us with a “Buona Notte” and told us they would have a table ready in ten minutes.  Although I thought they were just pushing us off by telling us this, we soon found out they weren’t lying!  Our four-top was ready precisely ten minutes later.  Our waiter was affable, attentive and ITALIAN.  Hearing “prego” after almost every sentence brought me back to our three weeks traveling around Italy this past summer.  It made me happy and I smiled, then I started to groan as I was reminded that our trip was actually long over (that’s my way of dealing with it….I am kind of manic about our big trips being over. Reminicing initially makes me happy and then it soon makes me very depressed!).  My funk lifted as I heard the specials – beef tartar with arugula, veal with a black truffle sauce, fettuccine in a porcini cream sauce and bucatini with sardines, raisins and pinenuts.   We ordered the salami and cheese platter, the beef tartare special and the cuttlefish stew over polenta to start.  Each starter was not only amazingly authentic in taste, but the portions were pretty hefty (the prices aren’t cheap, but they do give you a good amount of food)!  The beef tartare was delicious and more simply prepared than the one I ate at A Voce.  It was over a bed of peppery arugula greens and dressed with some lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil - this all went splendidly with the tartare.  The cuttlefish stew was excellent – tender in a beautiful tomato sauce with pecorino and over a delicate, smooth polenta.  Highly recommended!  Finally, the cheese and salami platter was delish. Our guests ate most of it, so I only had a few bites. It was a big platter and could’ve been shared by all four of us!

Finally, our entrees were just as expected – authentic and phenomenal.  I had the special pasta with sardines, raisins and pinenuts, topped with breadcrumbs - a very Sicilian dish.  It reminded me a bit of the Bucatini with Pistachio Sauce we recreated from a meal we ate on Elba Island, Tuscany.  The pasta was perfectly al dente, the sauce just perfectly balanced - a delicious special.  My husband enjoyed his veal with truffle sauce, although he believed the sauce lacked a little something (perhaps not enough truffle flavor? Black truffles are not as strong as white, so this could possibly be the reason for the mildness).  Nonetheless, his large pieces of veal were extremely tender.  Our guests ordered the same thing – the pasta special of fettuccine in a porcini cream sauce.  Although I only ate a bite, it was heavenly.  The fettucini tasted homemade and the cream sauce wasn’t too heavy.  Also, they used real porcini’s… not the re-hydrated kind.  Excellent.

We topped off our meal with espresso’s and laid back, belly’s full, with a smile on our face.  The staff at Cacio e Pepe never rushed us, allowing us to sit, eat, drink and chat for over 2 1/2 hours.  Just like real Italians!  You don’t find that type of thing often enough in New York City.  It was an all-around excellent experience and Cacio e Pepe comes HIGHLY recommended.  I only wished we brought our camera so you could see the dishes for yourselves!  Ah, well… you’ll just have to trust us and check it out for yourself.

Check out our other recipes, food commentary and restaurant reviews!